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My first home away from home in New York City in the late 90s was just around the corner on 5th Street, in Eddie’s building. He was a reliable sight on the block, grizzled, tall and draped in fake pearls. On hot days he could be found wrenching open the fire hydrant to make a fountain.
via Tommylane on flickr.
He and I would sit on the roof eating chips and drinking Gatorade. He was born in that building and continued to live there after his parents passed away and his brother moved. He told me that when he was a kid, there was a movie theater next door (on the corner occupied by a senior center), and he and his friends used to clamber from roof to roof to sneak in.
via luckyolive on flickr
Eddie hadn’t left the 3-block area in at least 30 years. His last trips away included visits to the emergency room when he would nearly kill himself drinking. His advice was to stagger in and hit the wall so that the nurse would attend to you immediately — you wouldn’t have to wait. The sweetest sight was the nurse coming with the shot.
He was a devotee of Sophie’s bar on the block, they let him sweep up and he ogled the young boys there – the golden boys as he called them.
He climbed the tower for me once, to show me how he’d built it. He’d created broken toy sculptures all over the garden – they only became a tower after the other folks asked him to confine them to one small square. He said he could look out over everything, from the top. He could see far past the three blocks he hadn’t left in years. Goodnight Eddie, and goodnight tower.
The most amazing little burger joint. the whole place is about as big as my brooklyn kitchen (i.e. not big). the youngest person at the counter was probably 65. one guy kept winking exaggeratedly and making flirty faces at all the women lined up for takeout.
there is a special takeout area where you order at one window and pick it up at the adjacent window from one of the elderly waitresses who have matching dyed black hair.
you can get a bag of burgers (4) for $2. Everything else there is like $1.15 except the fries which are 65 cents. I ordered lunch for eight people and it was like $12. Also when people were ordering, they were saying all kinds of things that are not on the menu, like “Let me get three double-doubles and a triple and a neighborhood.” WTF?! I was too shy to get a tutorial unfortunately but I’m sure my newbieness was obvious when I got up there and ordered stuff that was actually listed on the menu. Viva la Telway forever.
Also everything in there is the same as it was when it opened in like 1952. I love that!
After only four days in Detroit, I became attached to certain spots. The formerly grand row of mansions leading up to the bridge to Belle Isle (a circa 1848 island park, complete with abandoned zoo, Tudor aquarium and greenhouses, boat club and Art Deco lighthouse). The big neon sign across the Museum of Contemporary Art:
The crumbling 2-story 20s buildings of Del Ray, festooned with angels. And of course the enormous hulking landmarks — the Michigan Central Depot and the Packard Plant (where some friends had to dodge a fire set in the stairwell they’d entered by…)
This Harper’s article from last July shares some great history and context, and some hope for the future – mostly in urban farming. Rebecca Solnit is right — a city full of empty buildings (firehouses, commercial, castles, churches) looks pretty good to a bunch of space-starved artists from New York City.
One of the most remarkable people I met there was the proprietor of the Temple Bar, an Art Deco bar that his father and uncle built and ran together until the late 60s. The bar served the nearby Masonic Temple until they built their own inside. George works with the Cass Corridor Local Development Corporation — a nonprofit that provides affordable housing while preserving buildings in that area, the former estate of Lewis Cass. It was really wonderful to run into someone so active and interested in his community and neighborhood — while he served us $3 cocktails during karaoke night!
Originally uploaded by gsgeorge
I’m heading there this month for my first visit! I’ve been reading about it for years, and writing a little about it last spring for my thesis (on arts groups reusing vacant and abandoned places.)
Stories of Detroit’s hollowing core, the farm downtown and the skyscrapers with graffiti faces in each window were part of the mythologies that led me to get interested in urbanism.
I’m going with the legendary Dark Passage crew. If anyone has tips on the unusual and unmissable — or just where we should stay — please share.
With $50 million earmarked to renovate the 1930s WPA landmark, Williamsburg and Greenpoint residents are getting out their wishlists. In community planning meetings so far, the skaters have shown up in full force.
Other popular ideas include steam baths, rooftop greenhouses/patios, a waterslide from the tower, geothermal heating for year-round swimming, and space for classes, dancing and martial arts practice. Bike racks, lockers and wifi would be great. I would love to see local businesses provide a range of food and drink.
The current use for concerts and movies has drawn thousands over the summer — I’m there sometimes twice a week. How exciting to get some support from the city in improving our rapidly-growing neighborhood.
And mail to:
Attn: McCarren Survey
Partnerships for Parks
95 Prospect Park West
Brooklyn, NY 11215
Please return the survey by: Friday, August 31.
Originally uploaded by Reversible Skirt
We wrapped up the project with a proposal for a monument in the shape of a spiral which overlays the map of Paterson, a path that you can follow and mark according to its significance to you. I.e., Paterson mapped by restaurants, or indigenous plant life. Paterson as defined by the special buildings that fall on the spiral. Anecdotal Paterson.
I am planning an outdoor screening of The Cousteau Odyssey Vol. 5: Clipperton: The Island Time Forgot in Red Hook, because of its maritime scenery. This will probably take place next Sunday July 29th. Please comment if you would like to come.
The Eveready Diner, image c/o igougo.com
The past few weeks I’ve been lucky enough to get out of the city and visit some of the amazing diners nearby. The Eveready, in Hyde Park, New York, is a gleaming spectacle that evokes a vintage traincar inside — birds-eye wood paneling and plenty of chrome. They offer local ice cream from a nearby farm (sadly, I was way too full to have it!) This kind of place shows up a Gunther Toody’s or Johnny Rockets franchise as the overblown, corporate facsimiles they are.
Click here for a set of images in loving detail of the Egg Platter Diner’s amazing wallpaper, taken by my friend Joe.
We grabbed breakfast at the Egg Platter in Paterson, NJ — the average plate (all or most involve eggs, of course) runs about $4.
Image from the great Diner City Web site.
Photos and recap to come! I’ve been exploring Paterson for a few days, from the abandoned Hynchcliffe Stadium to a church at 440 River Street that has been lovingly rehabilitated by a restorer from Colombia and his son, a passion project over the last 15 years.
And this morning we are going to the Egg Platter!
Today I’m posting from the sunny foyer of one of the old silk mills of Paterson, NJ. It’s now a museum in the Great Falls Historic District, which is just jammed with amazing brick buildings dating back to the early and mid-1800s. Paterson produced half of the silk made in America — hence the nickname Silk City — until labor disputes around the turn of the century such as the Silk Strike of 1913, which gave us the 8-hour workday.
I’m leading a walking tour of what’s left of these old mills (the Colt Gun Mill, pictured above, is another biggie that is mostly gone, what is left is actually crated and marked for reassembly!) today at 1pm. A lot of amazing things happened here — the first submarine was launched into the Passaic River right above the Great Falls, the first revolver was made here, and a whole lot of sailcloth was produced.
Industrialists like Catholina Lambert prospered — he built a castle on the mountain and filled it with art — a Citizen Kane-like persona. Seven of his eight children predeceased him, as did his wife Isabella (who the castle was originally named after, Belle Vista), and also her widowed sister, who Catholina married after his wife’s death. He continued to live in the castle until his death in 1923.
Unfortunately, Shuli Sade had a family emergency and had to leave the country. That means I’ll be pinch-hitting to lead the industrial archeology tour of Paterson, as part of Flux Factory’s Paterson Project, this Saturday at 1p.
The tour is free and we meet at the Paterson Museum, which is a ten-minute walk from the bus station.
download Bus Schedule here, you want the 190 express from Port Authority ($11 roundtrip).
Paterson is the first planned industrial city, centered around its Great Falls. There were 200 mills feeding off the power and electricity generated by the river. Come explore a few with me.
Bring your camera and comfortable shoes.